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Being a surfer I couldn't resist posting this one. Would I do this? Nuh...forget it! That's a seriously big gnarly wave. Taking the drop is the hardest part - like looking over the edge of a ten storey building. And once you take off you're committed - you're not going to flick off this one too easily! If you eat it you need to be able to hold your breath for a couple of minutes because the broken wave turns to foam and thrashes you around like a washing machine - making it very hard to work out what's up and what's down. So you need to chill and go with the flow until you know where you are. I've never surfed anything anywhere as big as this but I've surfed big waves in Australia, Indonesia, Tahiti and Hawaii. And I've gotta tell you - it's the ultimate rush. I'd best go check the break off Pont Neuf now.
Malcolm Lambe
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Reader Comments (3)
I would love ot come to Parrie for a weekender.. gotta be better than being stuck in the airport for 8 hours.. and to dance with the green fairy in Parrie.. (I am thinking some really cool french sounding shit right now)
My Europe trip has been canned this spring.. I am so pissed.. (Pissed off, not drunk) I was looking forward to a 48 hour stay in Amsterdam.. any more than that and I would need a body bag.. Ever had your wing ding sucked by 6 girls at once? AMAZING.. and only available to you in amsterdam and some family reunions in the southern US.
Shit I still need to post the poem of the day.. got any real bad ones?
Scary stuff Mal! The surf off Bulli Beach isn't that big today, but it'll do!